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  • Omega's 3rd NSD - Dalek Diadosi
    For those who have read my other current build Diary for Dalek Mordin, you may recall that I mentioned that Im going to be using the molds I built for Mordin to build a 3rd NSD for another friend on the West coast. He decided on the name "Diadosi" for the dalek, and it'll be another 2005 bronze/gold NSD. Since Ive gotten all the molds made and Im starting on making body pieces for this build, I figure this is as good a time as any to start a build diary for it. The build diary for Mordin already contains all the photos and such of the making of the plugs and molds and such up to this point, so this diary will basically be starting off with the molds already made, and going from there, though Ill probably recap a bit here and there. So, without further ado... I figured Id start with the fender, so I cleaned and prepped the mold Id built and used for Mordin, and gave it a few good coats of furniture polish to make sure it was nice and smooth. Once that was set I hit it with a few coats of release wax, then the PVA release agent applied with the cup sprayer. Once that was dried I applied the gel coat. I had the same problem I had been having when making the shoulder molds; little spots where the gelcoat just wouldnt stay. It would just run off and leave little pits or bowls or spots where there was no gelcoat. I ended up doing several coats to get full coverage. I did notice the cloth I had used to apply the wax had gotten a bit dirty, so I switched to a new one for the last few coats of wax. Once the gelcoat was on nice and thick, it was time for fiberglass. I used smaller pieces of 0.75oz matting for the first 3 layers, and then the heavier 1.5oz matting for the rest. So far Im up to 7 layers and Im debating as to whether to ad an 8th. Unlike Mordin, which is only for decoration, Diadosi will be taken to convetions and such and have someone riding inside. As such the fender and skirt need to be much stronger than on Mordin. Any thoughts on how many layers would be ideal? I know 7 is probably plenty, but I tend to like to over-engineer things like this. Better safe than sorry and all that. I also have the neck bin and faux-heronrib pretty much done. I already documented the build for it in Mordin's diary though, so for now Ill just include a picture of where its at so far. The fender needs to cure for a few days, so next Ill probably get the skirt mold cleaned and prepped and move onto that.
  • Gharman's Power Dalek
    This will be my first Dalek build, and it will represent a prop of the style of 'The Power of the Daleks'. 'Power' was my favourite Dalek story even before it got popular in 2005... honest! Admittedly it was well before my time - when I was young Doctor Who wasn't even on TV, but even so there was something about Daleks that appealed to me, and I wanted to see what they were like in their 60s heyday. I made many visits to the local library, with its painfully slow internet connection, very gradually going through the telesnaps of 'Power' on the BBC website 😄. So, anyway, this will be a 'Power' Dalek. I am in awe of the level of research that members of this forum (and others) have put into producing the plans, the workshop manual and the amazing For the sake of my own sanity, though, I'm not going to try to recreate an individual prop. What I will do is try to produce the feel of a prop that might have been built for DP or DIOE and modified for 'Power' - leaving out movie influences like flat-top gunboxes, 65° neck ring chamfer and misaligned hemis. (See, I have learned a lot by being a forum lurker!) Accordingly I am using some pages from the 'Shawcraft Mark 1' plans and others from the 'Mark 3'. At the moment I don't have the space for a completed Dalek, but rather than put it off any longer I've decided I'm going to start making the appendages, because they look (a) fun and (b) portable. Anyway... you don't click on a build diary for all this text, you want pictures. Well, here they come. I'm making my eyeball and the arm and gun balls out of gazing globes, and therefore got 3 brushed steel 10cm ones from Primrose. Why brushed, and not polished? Because I reckoned the brush pattern would conveniently mark two points on the surface that are opposite each other when you want to drill through, as well as concentric rings that would guide the cuts I wanted to make. As per the plans, I wanted to remove an 8mm wide section from the middle to make a truncated sphere for the eyeball. Besides which, the rougher surface should be easier to paint when I come to turn the eyeball black. First, I marked out the eyeball. This was fiddlier than I expected even with the brush marks to help. To measure the circumference of the ball I marked out masking tape as seen here: I eventually realised that I only needed to mark 4 points: the centres at either end, a point on the edge of the iris, and a point 4mm away from the centre line, where I want to remove a section from the middle of the ball. You might think you need another mark 4mm on the other side of the centre line, but I realised there are better ways of making it symmetrical - as you will see. The centre-line points were easy enough, due to the brush marks. I marked them with a centre punch to be drilled later. The point 4mm off the centre was found with the measuring tape and marked with tippex. To mark the point on the edge of the iris, I cut the end off my soup can and held it to the ball, using the tape to make sure it was straight, and marked where the edge came to. This was after a fruitless search of Tesco for a 77mm can, they all seem to be 75mm to the outside edge of the rim, but it'll have to do! I drilled out the two ends with a stepped drill to 25mm. My 1" aluminium tube for the eyestalk centre hadn't arrived yet, but these holes allowed me to insert a piece of 25mm steel conduit offcut through the ball, for the next stage of the operation... My machining skills are basic (and rusty), but I do have access to machine tools. A colleague suggested a way I could accurately cut the globe. I mounted the 25mm tube, with ball attached, in a lathe. With Jubilee clips I attached a Dremel to the tool post, and mounted a cutting disc in the Dremel.. Pushing the ball up against the chuck, I moved the tool post to position the cutting disc for my first cut. This meant lining it up with the mark I had made 4mm off the centre. Then, I switched on the dremel, advanced the tool post and started cutting. I didn't use the lathe motor at all but just turned the chuck by hand; I withdrew the dremel, turned the chuck a little, advanced the dremel, and cut through another little bit of ball. This produced a nice straight cut. Not wanting the ball to fall apart too soon, I left 3 uncut sections to hold it all together. Now, the clever bit. I remove the pipe from the chuck, remove the ball from the pipe, turn the ball around, put the pipe back through, put it in the lathe again, again with the ball hard against the chuck, without moving the tool post left or right at any point in the operation. This means that the second cut will be a mirror-image of the first, and the two sections of the ball I am left with should marry up with one another nicely. For the third cut, I looked at the mark I had made for the iris, and thought "I want it to be a tight fit, I'll go a few mm to the right to make the hole smaller, and I can always enlarge it with sandpaper later". As before I initially left 3 small sections intact. Finally I cut those too, and my eye had an iris hole. Suddenly, it's starting to look like a Dalek! Using this hole I was then able to mount the ball directly in the chuck (the chuck jaws inside) and so completed the other two cuts. I had to replace the cutting disc maybe 5 times during the whole process, but I finally had 3 straight cuts. And presto- it's an eye! (Here held together with sellotape). The two halves meet each other nicely. I can join them on the inside with epoxy and smooth over the join on the outside with P38. But there was a problem. The iris hole was bigger than I'd like: in fact the soup can, rim and all, could be pushed right through it if lined up correctly. I want it to be a tight fit, but I don't want to permanently attach the can, because I want to illuminate my iris and will need to be able to remove the front for maintenance. In cutting it, however, I had not allowed for the width of the cut itself. The hole was just 2mm too wide. Rather than start again, I decided to attempt a repair with P38 car body filler. I knew P40 would be stronger, but I also knew I would have to do a lot of sanding, and I'm nervous about glass dust. I took the hemisphere I had created for the back of the eye and lined the inside of it with sellotape, then pressed the front half of the eye inside it, before buttering the iris edge from the inside with P38. I allowed 20 minutes for it to cure and then tried to separate the two parts... they were reluctant, and I was convinced the P38 ring was going to collapse into powder, but then suddenly they popped apart leaving a nicely moulded and reassuringly tough ring around the iris hole edge. (The yoghurt pot in the background earlier provided me with a useful curved filler application tool 😉.) After a lot of sanding, I am left with a neat little P38 ring, which is a tight fit on the soup can, but still allows me to pull it out and put it back in. I was surprised and relieved that that worked... (and if it hadn't, I wouldn't be posting about it!). It might even be a good enough bearing to allow the can to rotate, as it would have to if I wanted a moving iris. But that would be a bit too ambitious, wouldn't it? Or would it...? In the intervening week I've been thinking a lot about irises. More on that subject in the next post...
  • Bec Weir's Imperial
    So, I have finally decided to start the build diary of the Imperial Dalek that I started some time ago. This build has been slow for me, as it has been delayed by many things that life throws at me and two bouts of back surgery. Thanks to John and Aaron J Climas for help with measurements and advice and to Christmas Dalek for lots of photos of an original prop and advice. I have been lucky enough to get all the MDF for this build for free from my local hardware store (Bunnings) by asking the guys nicely in the timber yard if they have any toppers that protect the stacks of MDF when delivered. They do usually have some damage on one side from the forklift tines, but I just cut stuff so the marked side is on the inside. Free is good. I started with creating a .dxf file of the skirt and cut it on my laser. This takes a few hours to draw up and cut out. The seams were taped with masking tape and fiberglassed inside. The small gaps along the seams were filled with builders bog. Given a coat of spray primer filler and bogged with blade putty. It was then given another coat of prime filler and any defects were filled using blade putty, sanded and given another coat of spray putty, before being sanded up to 2000 grit. I decided to make the skirt mould in two halves, with the parts at the front and in the middle of panel six. to do this, I measured the angle of the front of the skirt and, using half that angle, cut a divide for the mould using the table saw. Another divide was mad for panel six and cut to size so it will sit flush with the top and bottom of the mould. A sheet of 12mm MDF was cut in half and affixed to the top and bottom of the skirt and the whole thing given five coats of wax, polished off after each coat. It was then given two layers of PVA release using the spray gun. Two layers of tooling gelcoat were painted on, trying to give thickish, even coats, allowing it to go dry to the touch between coats. Four layers of 450gsm fiberglass mat were laser cut out and layered on using a roller brush with a fluffy acrylic roller. It uses more polyester resin using a roller, but it wets out the mat really well, pushed out any air and is super quick. The process was repeated on the other side. The two halves were trimmed using a 100mm angle grinder and separated easily, once the top and bottom MDF plates were unscrewed from the skirt easily in under a minute. My two new kittens, Ben and Ruby helped me wash the halves of PVA release in the backyard. Some 12mm MDF was cut and added to the top and bottom of the mould and bolted in place (with 48 6mm bolts!). The mould was waxed twice, given two coats of PVA release sprayed on and then two coats of white tinted gelcoat was painted in, allowing it to go dry to the touch between coats. Two layers of 450 gsm were laser cut out, just like with the mould, and resin added using a roller brush. A further two layers of mat were added to the top and bottom returns of the skirt to add strength. I gave the demoulded fiberglass skirt a quick sand with 80 grit then 240 grit sandpaper. A coat of spray primer filler and blade putty added to any defects. I'm pretty fussy with this stage and will usually do this process three times so there are no defects showing in the final spray primer layer.
  • Simon's Aluminium Evil Dalek
    Hi all, I thought I should probably start a build diary for a new build that I have recently started. One of the things that I didn't expect and that disappointed me somewhat when I built my first Dalek is that it just looked like a giant plastic toy, despite looking metallic on camera. I went to the Doctor Who Experience and felt the same about the props there, including the New Series Daleks, which obviously look fantastic on television. They were just lacking a little something in person. I want my Dalek to have the same brushed metal look and feel as this prop from The Evil of the Daleks, but in real life, rather than under harsh studio lighting. Previously I had been very impressed by some aluminium builds, such as: and So I have decided to give building an aluminium Dalek a go. I started with no idea how to do it. I've never done any welding of steel even, let alone TIG welding aluminium. But I'm willing to give anything a shot, budget permitting. I know I want the outward appearance to closely resemble Dalek Six-5 from Evil but I am currently torn about whether to make its colour scheme closer to that of AB1 from The Witch's Familiar. I also quite like the anodised look of the hemispheres from the Power of the Daleks colourised animation. So I'm torn between the left concept image and the more traditional late 60s colour scheme on the right. On to the build: As I posted in the thread: I built a small test furnace based on the design of YouTuber The King of Random. This furnace lasted through about 4 firings before the plaster and sand refactory material started to perish. Thankfully, you can just bang the old refactory material out and cast some more. So I rebuilt the inner of the furnace and started making some more aluminium ingots from drinks cans. Using cans is quite laborious (if fun) and you don't get a lot of aluminium for your effort. Also my stomach is not thanking me for the past 8 months! I fired up the rebuilt furnace again and tried melting about 100 cans plus a couple of other scrap items. Unfortunately, with charcoal, the side with the air intake tends to burn far faster and hotter than the other side, and eventually this can cause the crucible to become offset from centre. If this happens it is easy for the temperature of the crucible to drop. This happened to me when I was being greedy and trying to completely fill the crucible. The thermal load was too great for the heat loss and the aluminium solidified. I was able to remelt most of it and make a pour but there is still a fair amount still in the crucible. I didn't get to melt all the cans that were available. Here is a comparison of the amount of aluminium compared to the amount of dross left over from cans: And this is my current collection of ingots, with size and weight reference: Incidentally, with the charcoal burner one must be careful of flying embers. One went up the sleeve of my gloves and left a small but painful burn, which still has a scab now 20 days later. More to follow...
  • Omeganinjaboy's Movie Dalek
    I am going to work from the bottom up. I got the supplies for the base all set up. I'm going to make the movie base a bit differently than depicted in the workshop manual because I am not comfortable with fiberglass yet (I got a few needles of it stuck in my hand a little while ago from touching the reflective part of a local fire hydrant and it was not fun). Any input on my plans would be welcome :). A link to my base plans: . I have purchased a board of plywood (although I think I may need another one) four 5" grey wheels four 4" wide strips of Black Dahlia Kitchen and Bathroom Trim (black rubber strips) that will be black siliconed together and a new jigsaw I am not yet sure which dalek from which movie I am going to do but I don't think I will need to worry about that yet.
  • Tokyo Imperial
    After 3 weeks of trawling build diaries, hoarding images and reading through the plans and workshop manual I think I'm nearly ready to begin. At the moment I'm basing nearly everything on the Imperial Dalek design. There is however one small change I want to make which is to the eye! I love daleks with an iris, they just seem so much more 'alive' when their eye changes focus and the imperial with its static eye always felt a bit dead. It'll be some time before I get round to the eye so we'll see what happens there! What have I done so far? Not a massive amount, I've been sourcing materials, a workshop and planning the order I'll be building things in. I used to work making stuff in 3D so I've created the skirt panels to scale to get a feel for the process, how best to mark things out to save wood and an idea for how big things will be once I start cutting and sticking. The image shows a raw piece of 1x2m 3mm MDF being cut down to the panels. I have access to a 3D printer so I'm tempted to try a miniature one too. I realise I've made holes for push-through hemis that aren't accurate to the screen used Imperial props of the period either but given my inexperience, I thought that push-through may be easier than fiddling with bolt-ons. I've also found a store that sells see-through plastic hemispheres with a lip for 100 yen each. I'll be measuring those tomorrow! It will be powered by a human, I'll need to be able to lug it around by hand and a hefty wheelchair with batteries may be too heavy. The skirt will also have to split! Living in Tokyo there is very little space and doorways vary wildly in size (In my flat we have 3 doors all of which are of different widths and heights!). That's all for now!
  • Walter The Dalek
    Hi all, We have never done one of these dairies before, so a little lost but we will pick it up. So we went to another tank museum scfi (dalek) event, where my 2 children begged us to build a Dalek, so we have started. After getting the plans/workshop manual many thanks guys, and many evenings studying these and countless dvd's, books, and the children's toy Daleks, We started Walter (as named by the boys). Walter is based on the Emperor Guard Dalek from the 1967 story Evil of the Daleks when finished. After some discussion between ourselves we decided to build Walter from Fibre glass as fun/tricky and itchy as this has been. Once on the moulding was complete we have spent many hours prepping him. Once prepped he then had wooden frames installed to aided with strength and support and also a seat within the base and skirt moulding. Not to sure about his floor height yet though. Next we sanded down the neck rings and put them aside, although they look ok next time they will be made from wood, if only we had known. We made some neck struts using 8mm dowel joining 3 together as per the plans. Once these were complete we drilled holes in the neck and assembled they neck section minus the bin. Once all placed in we glued them into place, once glue was set we sanded the edges and primed it ready for spraying So we move on to Walters collars, These were drawn on to card first to use a template and have been stuck to Walter using 18mm MDF round spacers and a few screws. These will stay in place until we are ready to make them out of aluminium and move on to working on the shoulders in more detail i.e gun box etc. This is what Walter looks like tonight TO BE CONTINUED...….
  • The Mecanum Dalek
    Ok, so after what seems like endless reading Ive made a start on my mecanum wheeled NSD 2005 Dalek. Not sure how the motorisation is going to turn out, suspect there will be a lot of trial and error. The first parts turned up in the post . Strangely, I bought these of lenses off Ebay, but if you look at the dispatch address they came directly from Moflash. Does that mean they are making them again? The four motors needed to drive the wheels independently also came. These are off a Pride Go Chair. Need to wait for the wheels to come from the USA before I can start work on that bit, but in the mean time will make a start on the skirt and bumper so I can get a better idea of what sort of rolling chassis to mount the motors in. Will post more updates once Ive made some progress Wil.
  • Matthew's Emperor's Guard - Blitz
    Hello everyone, I know there is already a Build in Progress Diary for Blitz but I had issues with my old account. So we will continue his progress on here if that's ok with everyone. Unfortunately I don't have any updates on his progress at this point but hopefully it will be soon, so I will reupload the last photos of his current progress on here!
  • Bren's New Series Dalek Revamp
    [8 April, 2018] I recently acquired a new series dalek from a friend who has moulds taken from the originals, this is one that hes had for a little while and hasn't been finished. I bought it off him and im upgrading him, going to be repainted in the standard bronze colours and ill put a load of electronics inside including lights, a voice changer and an electric wheelchair so i dont have to shuffle it with my feet Anyway on with the pics Ive disassembled him as much as possible so that i can sand him down and repaint so far
  • Mick's Mk3
    Hello everyone. My name is Michael and I am excited to be entering into my first ever build of any kind (dropped myself in the deep end) and my first ever venture into the world of online forums. After much reading and researching of the outstanding builds, methods and innovative ideas to solving problems I have decided to do a build on the MK 3 / Genesis Dalek (my favourite) and build the body with mdf and keep everything as simple as can be for a newbie. This will be a slow build due to time constraints and an ever empty coffer, but I will enjoy seeing piece after piece in production and the final end result. Gun I have decided to work on one of the appendages first, so I made up a jig to bend 3mm rod to shape and trim to length afterwards. I also found some suitable copper in the plumbing section of the local hardware store and trimmed it to width to fit over the gun tubing (also local hardware) as the sleeves for the rods. With the aluminium tube and copper sleeves prep'd and some epoxy mixed, I attached the sleeves in place and double-checked the positioning of each before I left it to cure. This is my first attempt with epoxying metals (or anything else) so it was a tad messy at first. I managed good contact between the tube and sleeve and a nice result after cleanup and curing took place. I have cut the gun tubing to 500mm as this will allow a good length of handle on the inside for operation. Next up will be to mark and drill out the holes for the rods and epoxy them into place one at a time I guess. I will also drill out the 100mm sphere for the ball joint with a step drill and attach / epoxy (if needed) the gun shaft to it as well to make a nice finish prior to prep and painting. Now to find a drill press...
  • Simon's NSD
    I was surprised to see the number of build diaries, there must be a veritable army of Daleks out there, just ready for a word from central command to start the invasion. Perhaps there should be a Dalek Day when all Daleks take to the streets. Any way just a thought. I've been perusing the Dalek plans available and I've come to the conclusion that the NSD is the one for me. I've not long finished building a K9, which was fun, and took considerably longer to build than I initially though, although are these things ever really finished? I still have to convince the Mrs that we really need a Dalek, the alternative being to just start building one in the garage, and hopefully it'll be finished before she finds out For the time being I'll try modelling a Dalek to get the hang of the intricacies
  • Smythe's Dalek
    I was kindly donated a frame by Brian, I am now filling and sanding, aiming for a Death of the Daleks, Silver with black Hemis Bottom picture is what Brian kindly donated