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  • 3rd Movie Saucer Commander
    "Doctor Who and the Chase Across Time!" Yes you read right, 3rd movie, it’s not a typo! I bought a couple of Daleks a little while back and amongst them was this one which I wasn’t sure what to do with... I liked the idea of keeping it battle damaged but also didn't want it to just be a random dalek, so I thought about where we might see a red (sticking with the colour of the shoulders as that would be the hardest to change!) battle damaged dalek! Of course, the only place on screen we've ever seen a red dalek is in the movies! But not damaged... but then I thought, at the end of invasion earth the dalek elite all fall down the mineshaft... I once read that they had planned to do a third Cushing movie based on “the chase” serial. So I came up with a bit of a storyline to provide a reason for the movie Daleks to decide to chase the Doctor, and build in a destroyed red 2nd movie dalek! My idea was basically that after the explosion at the end of invasion earth, a scout ship would be sent from skaro to find survivors. The only survivor would be the saucer commander, badly damaged from falling down the mineshaft. He would then 'go a bit rogue' and order that the doctor be hunted down to prevent him hindering future Dalek plans... It would then be revealed that the Daleks back on skaro have now got time travel and hence the more movie sounding 'Chase across time' would begin! I started a plan for the scenes for a script but got no further and probably never will as it would be a huge project! Although I would love to! I thought perhaps I might do a feature length trailer?! We'll see! If anyone wants to see my idea so far let me know and I'll be happy to upload to this thread!
  • MrBracher's Dead Planet Dalek
    Well, I've made a start on on my Dalek, not too used to this blogging business so here's a few photos of the top and bottom big of my first attempt (a fixed skirt) and my second attempt (with a split skirt) the first one didn't get beyond the top and bottom bits of the skirt before i realize it wouldn't fit though the doors of our house! planning on fixing the split skirts onto a complete fender. shoulders and domw still in the planning stage but i have plenty to get on with over the next few days. Marking out on the first version Cut out and tucked away in the conservatory Work on the new lower section New lower section and old upper section split in two ready for continued split skirt build Thanks for reading, (Ps, could i have some help with the tags?)
  • Tom’s Imperial
    This is my build diary for my Imperial Dalek Project. The aim is to have 2 Imperial and 1 Special Weapons Dalek (hereafter referred to as SWD)They will be majority made from fibreglass so the first part of this will be documenting the process of plug making followed by creating the molds. I have started work on the skirt today and hope to keep the project and diary going at a reasonable pace however my first child is due to be born in 3 days time so time will tell how that will affect my progress. I will also try and provide hours, cost of materials that I buy specifically for the project as I go. I am making the plugs heavy and well made to avoid any warping or deformation when making a mold from them, they will not be used for the final Dalek. After 3 hours work I have the skirt base, top and upright support frames all cut, screwed and glued. Time: 3 hours Material cost: £35 1 x sheet 18mm mdf (skirt top, bottom, support frames and fender top) 1 x sheet 6mm ply (skirt panels)
  • Sandy Pownall's 2nd NSD
    Just started my second dalek, Dalek Rick is hiding under the duvet in the background.
  • 1960’s Style Supreme Dalek
    Not sure how best to start this so here goes. I plan to built a dalek similar in appearance to the Master Plan Supreme Dalek though I am not fussed by screen accuracy as simply building a Dalek that looks plausible will be a challenge I’m looking forward to overcoming. I will be using as many pre-acquired components as possible with my main challenge being marrying parts from differing sources (obviously I will not mention where I bought these from). Since some components are more readily available within a sensible budget I planned a hybrid using these. The resulting concept includes a subtle mix of both the original Shawcraft Designs and elements from the 2005 final design and concept art. I now have the majority of main parts acquired so as and when I make sufficient progress I’ll be sure to post updates. For now you can see a virtual mock up I make by altering various SketchUp models to give a idea of what my finished project could look like with elements of various dalek designs. That’s all for now Oliver(Timeprowler)
  • Jeremy’s 2nd Movie Dalek
    Hi to the forum members... Im starting my build diary somewhat apprehensively as I’m not the most savvy of social media users so I may be somewhat clumsy with my use of the forum. I made a start with a couple of the appendiges and was pleasantly surprised with the outcome and this has spurred me on to the more significant parts. its going to be a slow build has I have four granddaughters that I help look after in my retirement. I am aiming to build a 2nd Cushing film Dalek but haven’t decided which colour as yet. I first purchased 30 x 100mm plastic Christmas baubles mainly for the hemi's and decided to use one for the eye ball. First mistake here is that I was so excited about making the eye that I neglected to take the key photos. So there is a bit of a jump to the end product. y I cut the first half of the ball by 4mms and did the same with the other half but also sliced off About 10mms from the sphere of the other half to allow 8mms of the top of a bake bean tin to be glued over the hole. Having predrilled the tin with an appropriate appature. This allowed a sawn down LED torch fitted to a lamp rod to be fed through. . The black part of the iris is from the plastic lid of dried mushrooms and the white part is a price of Chinese carton cut to size and painted white on the inside. After much p38 and sanding later my paint finish has satisfied me. The disc are blue acrylic courtesy of the Forum and the pivot disc is bits of plywood and MDF I found in my shed after much more sanding and painting. OK so here’s my next big mistake. I threaded everything on to the lamp rod feeling quite proud of myself and stupidly thought it would be a good idea to superglue the discs to each section of clear acrylic tubing threaded over a chrome tube. The fumes/chemicals if the glue clouded the chrome in parts and now I can’t take them off because they are stuck fast....😡. Whatever...I’m still quite pleased with overall result. Feel free to scoff at this point.....back soon for another entry. Ps I’ll be sure to take more snaps of the build for the next entry.
  • Alexbb's Walsall Custom Dalek - Chris
    Well I am going to start adding pics here and information of what we are doing to 'Chris' (named after Christopher Eccleston by my Stepson). Chris has lived with my wife and stepson for about 14 years, he was built by a friend from where she used to work. We are not really sure what plans he may have been built to, but perhaps someone here can recognise the design???.. So far he has been stripped down into his main sections as we are moving house. I have added new castors to his base so he now has 4 swivel castors, these we got from Screwfix for £2.99 each.. The will let him move a lot easier as before he had 2 swivel and 2 fixed! The base has been sanded to improve the finish and filled and given 2 coats of Matt Black paint... The next stage will be sanding and filling of the sides / base and then giving them a coat of silver. After that I need to re-fix the balls that have fallen out and then mask and spray those... We are not sure of the shade of Blue we should use for those! So if anyone has any advice please let us know??
  • LXavierW's Dalek
    Hey everyone, I'm just about to start my first Dalek. I'm on a very tight budget, and I'm pretty much trying to do this without buying anything except paint. So my dalek is going to me mostly made out of cardboard. I'm also getting a 3D printer this weeking (for free) because I have been asked to see if I can fix it. So my plan is to print the dome and Hemis, then build most of the rest out of cardboard with a small office chair for the Flinstone Style Base. I'll post more updates when I actually have progress. Oh, forgot to mention, I'm building my dalek way our here in the Northwestern United States, so that just makes it a tad bit more difficult.
  • Hazel's 1st Film Drone
    Hello fellow Dalek nuts. This isn`t much of a start but at least it IS a start. Here are the top and bottom members of the skirt. Iam having to make things in parts as I can`t handle large sheets of ply. The bottom component needs its middle cut out of course. I would have got a bit more done but I had to go out and buy a sanding machine and do the shopping. My next day off is Monday so I`ll get a bit more done then. Also on Monday I have a 220 mile round trip to do in order to collect the motive power for this Dalek in the form of a mobility chair. Obviously I`ll have to modify the chair somewhat but I`m sure I can manage that. Anyway, here`s a couple of pics to show willing.
  • Exorphin's NSD
    Hi all, just starting my build. Sourced a quantum 600 electric wheelchair from old kids hospital here in Perth. Have dabbled with Dalek costume for the kids before and am going to have a go at a real life unit. So far have looked at lots of other folks builds and have changed out batteries and repaired charger on the wheelchair. Cheers, E.
  • H2redfirefox's Dalek
    So is the title as I haven't built something like this before but I thought I would include a picture this is basically in building a test platform for the electronics of the motors and what not please don't expect much from me as I do not have all the required tools and basically doing this from home so I'm guessing there's probably a few people out there in the same position as I am so I'm taking it slowly doing each bit by bit until on what I'm doing
  • Omega's 3rd NSD - Dalek Diadosi
    For those who have read my other current build Diary for Dalek Mordin, you may recall that I mentioned that Im going to be using the molds I built for Mordin to build a 3rd NSD for another friend on the West coast. He decided on the name "Diadosi" for the dalek, and it'll be another 2005 bronze/gold NSD. Since Ive gotten all the molds made and Im starting on making body pieces for this build, I figure this is as good a time as any to start a build diary for it. The build diary for Mordin already contains all the photos and such of the making of the plugs and molds and such up to this point, so this diary will basically be starting off with the molds already made, and going from there, though Ill probably recap a bit here and there. So, without further ado... I figured Id start with the fender, so I cleaned and prepped the mold Id built and used for Mordin, and gave it a few good coats of furniture polish to make sure it was nice and smooth. Once that was set I hit it with a few coats of release wax, then the PVA release agent applied with the cup sprayer. Once that was dried I applied the gel coat. I had the same problem I had been having when making the shoulder molds; little spots where the gelcoat just wouldnt stay. It would just run off and leave little pits or bowls or spots where there was no gelcoat. I ended up doing several coats to get full coverage. I did notice the cloth I had used to apply the wax had gotten a bit dirty, so I switched to a new one for the last few coats of wax. Once the gelcoat was on nice and thick, it was time for fiberglass. I used smaller pieces of 0.75oz matting for the first 3 layers, and then the heavier 1.5oz matting for the rest. So far Im up to 7 layers and Im debating as to whether to ad an 8th. Unlike Mordin, which is only for decoration, Diadosi will be taken to convetions and such and have someone riding inside. As such the fender and skirt need to be much stronger than on Mordin. Any thoughts on how many layers would be ideal? I know 7 is probably plenty, but I tend to like to over-engineer things like this. Better safe than sorry and all that. I also have the neck bin and faux-heronrib pretty much done. I already documented the build for it in Mordin's diary though, so for now Ill just include a picture of where its at so far. The fender needs to cure for a few days, so next Ill probably get the skirt mold cleaned and prepped and move onto that.
  • Gharman's Power Dalek
    This will be my first Dalek build, and it will represent a prop of the style of 'The Power of the Daleks'. 'Power' was my favourite Dalek story even before it got popular in 2005... honest! Admittedly it was well before my time - when I was young Doctor Who wasn't even on TV, but even so there was something about Daleks that appealed to me, and I wanted to see what they were like in their 60s heyday. I made many visits to the local library, with its painfully slow internet connection, very gradually going through the telesnaps of 'Power' on the BBC website 😄. So, anyway, this will be a 'Power' Dalek. I am in awe of the level of research that members of this forum (and others) have put into producing the plans, the workshop manual and the amazing For the sake of my own sanity, though, I'm not going to try to recreate an individual prop. What I will do is try to produce the feel of a prop that might have been built for DP or DIOE and modified for 'Power' - leaving out movie influences like flat-top gunboxes, 65° neck ring chamfer and misaligned hemis. (See, I have learned a lot by being a forum lurker!) Accordingly I am using some pages from the 'Shawcraft Mark 1' plans and others from the 'Mark 3'. At the moment I don't have the space for a completed Dalek, but rather than put it off any longer I've decided I'm going to start making the appendages, because they look (a) fun and (b) portable. Anyway... you don't click on a build diary for all this text, you want pictures. Well, here they come. I'm making my eyeball and the arm and gun balls out of gazing globes, and therefore got 3 brushed steel 10cm ones from Primrose. Why brushed, and not polished? Because I reckoned the brush pattern would conveniently mark two points on the surface that are opposite each other when you want to drill through, as well as concentric rings that would guide the cuts I wanted to make. As per the plans, I wanted to remove an 8mm wide section from the middle to make a truncated sphere for the eyeball. Besides which, the rougher surface should be easier to paint when I come to turn the eyeball black. First, I marked out the eyeball. This was fiddlier than I expected even with the brush marks to help. To measure the circumference of the ball I marked out masking tape as seen here: I eventually realised that I only needed to mark 4 points: the centres at either end, a point on the edge of the iris, and a point 4mm away from the centre line, where I want to remove a section from the middle of the ball. You might think you need another mark 4mm on the other side of the centre line, but I realised there are better ways of making it symmetrical - as you will see. The centre-line points were easy enough, due to the brush marks. I marked them with a centre punch to be drilled later. The point 4mm off the centre was found with the measuring tape and marked with tippex. To mark the point on the edge of the iris, I cut the end off my soup can and held it to the ball, using the tape to make sure it was straight, and marked where the edge came to. This was after a fruitless search of Tesco for a 77mm can, they all seem to be 75mm to the outside edge of the rim, but it'll have to do! I drilled out the two ends with a stepped drill to 25mm. My 1" aluminium tube for the eyestalk centre hadn't arrived yet, but these holes allowed me to insert a piece of 25mm steel conduit offcut through the ball, for the next stage of the operation... My machining skills are basic (and rusty), but I do have access to machine tools. A colleague suggested a way I could accurately cut the globe. I mounted the 25mm tube, with ball attached, in a lathe. With Jubilee clips I attached a Dremel to the tool post, and mounted a cutting disc in the Dremel.. Pushing the ball up against the chuck, I moved the tool post to position the cutting disc for my first cut. This meant lining it up with the mark I had made 4mm off the centre. Then, I switched on the dremel, advanced the tool post and started cutting. I didn't use the lathe motor at all but just turned the chuck by hand; I withdrew the dremel, turned the chuck a little, advanced the dremel, and cut through another little bit of ball. This produced a nice straight cut. Not wanting the ball to fall apart too soon, I left 3 uncut sections to hold it all together. Now, the clever bit. I remove the pipe from the chuck, remove the ball from the pipe, turn the ball around, put the pipe back through, put it in the lathe again, again with the ball hard against the chuck, without moving the tool post left or right at any point in the operation. This means that the second cut will be a mirror-image of the first, and the two sections of the ball I am left with should marry up with one another nicely. For the third cut, I looked at the mark I had made for the iris, and thought "I want it to be a tight fit, I'll go a few mm to the right to make the hole smaller, and I can always enlarge it with sandpaper later". As before I initially left 3 small sections intact. Finally I cut those too, and my eye had an iris hole. Suddenly, it's starting to look like a Dalek! Using this hole I was then able to mount the ball directly in the chuck (the chuck jaws inside) and so completed the other two cuts. I had to replace the cutting disc maybe 5 times during the whole process, but I finally had 3 straight cuts. And presto- it's an eye! (Here held together with sellotape). The two halves meet each other nicely. I can join them on the inside with epoxy and smooth over the join on the outside with P38. But there was a problem. The iris hole was bigger than I'd like: in fact the soup can, rim and all, could be pushed right through it if lined up correctly. I want it to be a tight fit, but I don't want to permanently attach the can, because I want to illuminate my iris and will need to be able to remove the front for maintenance. In cutting it, however, I had not allowed for the width of the cut itself. The hole was just 2mm too wide. Rather than start again, I decided to attempt a repair with P38 car body filler. I knew P40 would be stronger, but I also knew I would have to do a lot of sanding, and I'm nervous about glass dust. I took the hemisphere I had created for the back of the eye and lined the inside of it with sellotape, then pressed the front half of the eye inside it, before buttering the iris edge from the inside with P38. I allowed 20 minutes for it to cure and then tried to separate the two parts... they were reluctant, and I was convinced the P38 ring was going to collapse into powder, but then suddenly they popped apart leaving a nicely moulded and reassuringly tough ring around the iris hole edge. (The yoghurt pot in the background earlier provided me with a useful curved filler application tool 😉.) After a lot of sanding, I am left with a neat little P38 ring, which is a tight fit on the soup can, but still allows me to pull it out and put it back in. I was surprised and relieved that that worked... (and if it hadn't, I wouldn't be posting about it!). It might even be a good enough bearing to allow the can to rotate, as it would have to if I wanted a moving iris. But that would be a bit too ambitious, wouldn't it? Or would it...? In the intervening week I've been thinking a lot about irises. More on that subject in the next post...